Sunday, 20 September 2009

The Road Trip Continues: Death Valley, Lake Mead, Hoover Dam, Zion Canyon and The Grand Canyon

Driving through Death Valley was hot with temperatures nearing 100 and this is the cool season! We camped in Panamint Springs that night.  As soon as we got out of the car the camp host told us to get out of the sandals and into shoes or boots - they have rattlesnakes and scorpions! 
The next morning we had school and then headed off to explore more of Death Vall
ey.  We stopped at Furnace Creek and t
hen the Dunes.  There are sand dunes in the 
mi
ddle of Death Valley - where do they come from?? We also saw lots of dust devils. You see a little sand moving then you see t
wo thin lines twist up and form a mini tornado. They were all around us, it was pretty cool.  We also stopped at the salt lake.  We hiked down to walk on it, it felt like you were walking on frozen ground as it crunched under your feet.  There were smooth round bubbles of salt and inside there were long thin slivers of salt 
connecting the sides of the bubble, they looked like stalagtites. We were below sea level!  We drove on and stopped at Zabriskie's lookout. What a view. The rocks were rounded and there were smooth worn cliffs. You could look down across the valley - it was so beautiful.

The drive down to Las Vegas was more desert. 
 Just before Las Vegas we saw Red Rocks in the distance. The rocks were sooo red!!! 

We Stopped and camped at Lake Mead.  Lake Mead has 550 miles of shoreline and was created when they built the Hoover Dam.  The campground was great with these little birds with tuffs on their head ran all around.  There was lots of Oleander which they warn you is very poisonous.  We could walk down to the lake and swim.  It was a long walk because the lake was quite low. We learned later they are in the 7th or 8th year of a drought. The lake was warm but weedy.

Next morning we were up early and off to the Hoover Dam. It was really cool. We did the tour and walked inside the dam and the power  plant. To start construction of the Dam they built four tunnels to reroute the Colorado River. The Dam is 221.3 m high and 13.7m wide at the top and  the base  is 201.2 m wide!  It is 379.2m long. They started construction in 1931 and finished in 1935.   They used  2.6 million cubic metres of concrete.  To help it set they put long pipes went in through the concrete squares and cooled the concrete - if they hadn't done it the concrete would have taken 125 years to cool which meant it would have cracked and crumbled.
The have 17 commercial generators in the power plant and the maximum power is 2.08 GW.  They moved all the big stuff with trains and you could see the rails in the plant. 
One side of the dam is Nevada and the other is Arizona.

We drove on  to Zion Canyon. Driving was boring again, mostly 
desert and dry hills. Once we reached Zion is was dark and the campground was full so we camped just outside. Next morning we were up early and found a spot in the park. There was a great creek for puddling and swimming. We stayed for two days.  So far it is the most beautiful place we've visited.  We hiked to Angel's Landing, it was a very steep hike with a stunning view of the canyon.  You took little shuttle buses around the canyon so there was not much traffic.  There were lots of little hikes into magical places with names like "The Emerald Pools" (they were named that because the algae made them look green). There are waterfalls and a place called the "Weeping Rock" where the water seeps out of the rock to create these wonderful hanging gardens. 
The canyon stared as sand dunes, 3 times higher than the dunes in the Sahara.  An inland lake formed, covering the dunes and hardening them into sandstone. Then the Virgin River began to cut its way down through the rock to form the canyon.  Some rock broke off in arches and some in squares so you see different shapes throughout the canyoon.  The fantastic colours of the canyon come from the minerals either running down and staining the rock, or leaching out of the rock. You see reds, yellows, desert varnish (black), white.  You also see green when it rains but that is a moss growing on the rock which becomes a vivid green whe
n exposed to water.

The second day we went on a walk with the Ranger at the Temple of Sinawava. It was called the Riverwalk and it ends at a place called the Narrows.  The talk was interesting, they have a really small snail only found in the park and they live on the walls where the water seeps from the rocks.  The ranger told a great Paiute story about the angry rocks which explains why rocks can't walk. 
It went something like this:

One day two gods were talking and decided what they made was a bit boring so they said "everything take a shape" and the gods walked around and named the shapes: animals, mountains, trees etc. Then they came across a shape that had fallen off the mountain and didn't have a name.  It could only roll. It was angry and it rolled and tumbled after 
the gods until Night Hawk came to save the gods. She dove and dove at the rock, beating the rock with her chin and wings.  Finally the rock broke up and the gods decided to punish the rock so they decided that all rocks that fell off the mountain would break into many small bits.  The Paiute don't walk in the Zion canyon because the angry rocks might fall at anytime.  It also explains why the night hawk has the white markings under the wings and chin - that is where the gods bandaged her after she beat the rocks. 


Time was getting short so we had to make a choice:  Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon or straight to Joshua Tree. We took a vote and 2 voted for Grand Canyon so off we 
went.  The drive wasn't boring it was spectacular.  There were huge cliffs, banded with so many different shades of red and we passed this field of rocks balanced on little points.  You could see where the sand had been worn out around them and they were left on tippy toes - it was amazing that they didn't fall over!  We chose the North Rim because it was less visited so we hoped t
o have fewer people for a change.  We stopped at Jacob's Lake to set up camp and then drove on to the Canyon. WOW. We were all very glad we visited the Canyon - it was spectacular and amazing.  

More about the canyon tomorrow .......




Monday, 14 September 2009

California road trip

      We arrived in  Sausalito just in time for the Sausalito Art Festival! It was great, except that I lost my camera!  Grrrrrr!  Right now, we're on a road trip to Yosemite, which we did  yesterday and the day before, hiked up to Half Dome, but didn't go all the way to the top; there were too many people going up.  Now we're in Death Valley, heading for the Grand Canyon, and maybe Zion or Bryce, then Joshua Tree for Climbing, Tahoe and then back to the boat in Sausalito!  And for all that I won't have a camera!  GRRRRRR!
      Anyway, the driving so far has been pretty boring, (driving usually is!) but Yosemite was stunning, it's all forest, big, rocky mountains and glacial lakes and streams.  The campsite we stayed in wasn't actually in the Park, it was just outside of it, and we had a little stream that went by right below the campsite, so we could swim and puddle in it!  
      We left Yosemite through Tioga Pass and it looked a lot like where we lived in France, all beautiful alpine country, then when you get to the other side of the Pass, it looks more like a desert!  
       So far, the trip's going well!!!

  ( I'll try to get some photos on from Mom's camera.)

Saturday, 29 August 2009

<(leaving victoria)

Victoria, B.C. - Sausalito, CA

We stopped in Gibsons and Victoria to see friends and finish last minute boat jobs.  Victoria was great fun hanging out with friends, climbing at Crag X (the indoor climbing gym), movies and swimming. 

August 13th, 2009 - We're good to go!! Off to Port An
geles to clear customs. Great sailing but not much luck fishing!

August 15th, 2009 - We're off!!  Out the Juan de Fuca Strait. Exciting moment as a whale followed us 10 feet off the stern - panic! Dad turned on the motor and we changed course. The whale moved on.  Caught a salmon while we were tuna fishing. Too funny. It was delicious and we figured a good luck omen for the trip. 

August 16th, 2009 - First night out was bumpy and rolly, there was no wind so we motored. Then the motor stoppped at about 6am this morning. We put up sails to drift along while Dad worked on repairing the problem. He thought it might be the lift pump (what is that? It "lifts" diesel from the tank to the engine so it's a bit important).  Hours later Dad had the engine running again! Go Dad!

The wind picked up and we had porpoises off the bow (Dall porpoises ) They are small and their dorsal fins are triangular. They are very cool and love to play around the boat. 

We hooked up the monitor windvane and nobody had to steer! The wind picked up and up and we were flying along at 6.5 knots with 2 reefs in the main and no head sail.  Another bumpy and rolly night! Em got up to look at the stars with Mom - the milky way was amazing. We have to learn the names of the other constellations.

August 17th, 2009 - gale warnings for tonight and tomorrow so we decided to run into Newport Oregon. It was a bit of a race to get in before dark and the seas were picking up. We surfed a wave at 10 knots! The engine died as we headed to the bar but Dad dove below and got it running. He stayed down there keeping the engine going while Mom steered us over the bar. It was a bit bumpy and Chris got soaked by a wave! Once at anchor we all relaxed and tied up to the transient dock. We'll sleep well tonight.

August 18-19th, 2009 - Exploring Newport Oregon.  Great little town with some good second hand bookshops. Visited the aquarium which was pretty cool. The giant Japanese spider crabs were amazing, they are really big with very long legs. We also visited the Hatfield Marine Centre which was even cooler. It shows lots of the science behind the sea. We saw the machine designed to capture wave energy, we saw a film about bioluminescence, we looked at experiments on salinity and tons of other really good stuff. 
Chris found a great fossil shell at the beach off the South Jetty. It is really cool.

August 20th, 2009 - Off again. We are headed to Charleston (Coos Bay). We had our first watch. We steered the boat and didn't really do much else for the half hour.  Mom and Dad do 3 hrs  on and 3 hrs off.  We arrived early in the morning so bobbed around waiting for daylight. The bar was calm so we entered easily and tied up at the fish dock in Charlston.

August 21st-23rd, 2009 - Our friends Jason, Nicole and Rowan met us and stayed a night on the boat. They brought great veg from their garden. Mom was really excited about it and it did taste really good.  There was a  great beach 15 minutes walking. Lots of sand and big waves but the water was freezing cold. We tried flying the kites but it didn't go that well.
We all went to the Blackberry Festival in Coos Bay on Saturday - very yummy food and lots of art things to look at. 
Dad changed one of the Port lights the old one was not stuck in very well! He is going to change all of the them as we go along.

August 24-27th, 2009 - Off again. Left the dock early. No wind so motored and motored and motored. We sailed finally. We were going to stop at Brookings but the weather sounded good around Cape Mendocino so we decided to keep going.  Dad sorted out the autohelm  on the windvane so no one had to steer. We helped out on watches -  looking for boats and checking our course.  We had lots of dolphins on the bow and once we were surrounded by over 50 of them jumping and splashing. It was fantastic. There were whales too. Some close and some in the distance. As we passed Cape Mendocino the fog came and went. Sometimes you couldn't see a thing but we had the radar. At night the phosphorescence in the water was incredible, wherever you would see white in the waves during the day it was bright green at night! 
As we got near San Fransisco we started dodging big boats in the fog. Mom and Dad were a little busy. We anchored at Drake's Bay. It was cool how the fog lifted just as we passed Point Reyes.  You could see the fog pouring down the sand cliffs. Yuck, you could smell the birds and the sea lions.  The rocks were white with guano.
We anchored in the Bay, it was really blowing hard so we didn't go to shore.  Too funny, there was a buoy we passed covered with sea lions (Chris counted 15, a record so far) Then we looked over at a little boat on a mooring and it was covered in sea lions - we called it the Sea Lion Hotel. 

August 28th, 2009 - We were up early and started sailing to San Fransisco via the Bonito Channel.  The wind died and we ended up motoring again! There were lots of sea lions, dolphins and fish jumping! The Pelicans were pretty cool too. It was sunny with no fog.
As we approached the Golden Gate Bridge Mom had to take way too many photos! Chris steered the boat under the bridge and into the bay.  It was suddenly hot when we entered the bay. We anchored off Sausalito - it is really shallow! Dad rowed off the check in with customs while we cleaned up and tidied the boat.  Finally Dad was back and it was off to shore for a quick adventure!





Tuesday, 21 July 2009

Getting ready to go


We are just setting out on our adventures and getting used to being back on a boat.
(i.e: tight spaces :))

Here's a photo of Adios, taken by Tony Blair. (Tony and her husband Russel came to stay on the boat for a few days!)

Right now, we're in Campbell River, and we're gonna leave this afternoon and go to Von Donop. We'll probably stay for a day or two there, and then I think we're going to Desolation Sound, staying there a while, and then heading back to Van Anda. Being on the boat is taking a bit of getting used to after living at the house. But it is awesome to be able to go fising every day. (i dont like fishing!-E)