The Cook Islands, Rarotonga

We had a great passage from Moorea, with gentle winds and a bright full moon. Very relaxing.

We caught a 48 lb mahi Mahi at dawn on day two, very fighty and delicious.

Arrived in the harbour (which is undergoing a major rebuild and dredging for cruise ships) and tied stern to the wall. Very European.

Really friendly Island, and everyone speaks NZ which is nice. NZ dollars are the local currency and they drink Steinlager and eat fish and chips. Very civilised.

Chris and Charlie did a three day PADI open water dive course, including four ocean dives, the last one on a wreck. Great fun and very professionally taught. The girls cycled right around the Island and Steff and the two teens hiked across as well.

We also went to the Saturday market which was very relaxed and had bacon and egg sandwiches.

Haven't had a chance to participate in the local Jet blast sport yet. All the local kids wait at the end of the runwayy for the big jets to take off and then hang on the fence to get blown horizontal by the jet blast. Apparently a dive mask is useful to keep the grit out of your eyes!

Heading off tomorrow (Thursday26th) for Beveridge reef which is in the middle of the ocean with no land around. If it is fine we willl stay ther two nights and then on to Tonga.

Moorea

We had an exciting sail to Papeete Tahiti and hove to for a few hours before entering the harbour. We are now in Moorea enjoying the hiking and swimming. Tomorrow we leave for Raratonga in the Cook Isands. It should be a 6-7 day trip unless we get light winds.

We will miss the French islands and their friendly people. It has been a great chance for the kids to catch up on their French!

March 30th 2011 Marquesas

Arriving at Hiva Oa

We had a great 23 day passage to Atuona, Hiva Oa.  The winds were a steady 15 with a few light days and the seas were benign.  We motored 20 hrs through the ICTZ and also used the spinnaker one or two days.  What can we say?? Lots of blue sky, stars at night, the occassional big ship and lots of popcorn! Em and Chris took watches during the day which really helped out.

We arrived at Atuona the day after the big earthquake in Japan and the Tsunami caused some unusual tide and currents.  We anchored outside the harbout for a few hours until everything settled down.  It was the first we'd heard about the earthquake!

What a beautiful place and such wonderful people!  It is fun to be speaking French again and seeing all those familiar products in the shops. We spent a week in Atuona resting, doing laundry, catching up on emails and exploring.   There are some terrific petroglyphs near the harbour, the Gaugin museum in town, the ancient cemetery and the ancient site in the nearby town T (forgot the name will upgrade on next entry)  The kids are delighted to be in a new place!

May 7th Tahiti

May 3rd, 2011  Toau to Papeete

We had a squally sail from Toau, Tuamotus to Papeete Tahiti.  First 24 hours was flat calm and windless.   The next day we had moderate winds and by evening we were flying along with double reefed main only. We should have tried the storm sails!  The wind was behind (25-30 Kts) and the seas didn't get that big so we were moving nicely at over 7 knots - go Adios!! Some of the more exciting sailing we've had this trip!  We hove to for a few hours and waited for daylight before entering Papeete.  Nice little harbour and easy entrance.

 It is fun to be in the 'Big' city again.  The weather has been rainy but it is a nice change although makes drying laundry a bit hit and miss.  There is music everywhere as groups just gather with instruments and start playing and singing. The market has a great selection of fresh veg and fruit so we are well fed!!
Kids are catching up on some school stuff - yes they are really happy about that and so enthusiastic.

Hopefully we'll get some photos on the blog while we are here and maybe even get some mail in the post!

Test message

This should publish from our satellite email.

 

This si the rest of the tuna that the shark did not want.

April 16th - May 3rd Marquesas to Tuamotus

April 16^th, 2011             Nuka Hiva, Marquesas – Fakarava, Tuamotus

We left to rather boisterous weather, which gave us a fast if uncomfortable start.  Nobody wrote much in the log for the first 2 days – that tells you a bit about the weather.  “Squalls, bumpy & windy”

                       Charlie at the helm

As the weather settled so did we, the boat moving along nicely under reefed main and headsail.  Once again we found ourselves slowing the boat down to arrive in daylight hours.  We also wanted to time our arrival to the turn to flood in the passage. 

April 21^st, 2011             Fakarave, Tuamotus  HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHARLIE

We arrived at the pass around 08:30 in the morning – just in time for the flood!! As we approached a rainbow appeared touching on Fakarava then dolphins surrounded the boat and escorted us through the pass.

Range markers made the entrance straightforward and we simply followed the green buoys around to the anchorage.  It was a little shallow in spots but we managed just fine.  Once we were happily anchored we had the dinghy in the water and went back to the pass for some drift diving.  Fantastic number of fish and corals.  Like being in an aquarium really.

We had our first ‘stuck in coral’ experience when we returned to the boat and tried to re-anchor in a better place.  Forward, reverese, forward, reverses, around, back forward etc etc Charlie finally got in the water with a mask and yelled out directions as the kids and I manoeuvred the boat.  We were finally off and able to re-anchor out of the current.

We spent the next 2 days exploring the beaches and snorkelling in the pass. We saw the giant Napoleon fish, sharks, and a variety of beautiful corals.

We worked our way along inside the lagoon at Fakarava, stopping for a couple of nights here and there.  We avoided coral when anchoring but still managed to get ourselves stuck a few more times.  We quickly became adept at unwrapping ourselves!

The town of Fakarava on the N end of the lagoon was lovely.  We visited a pearl farm and were fascinated by the delicate technique used to implant each oyster.  They can also replace a small pearl with a larger nucleus and the oyster covers it and makes a larger pearl.  Apparently they can do this 3 or 4 times, getting a larger pearl with each change.

The supply boat arrived and we were able to purchase some fresh supplies.  The town also has the best bakery to date – really nice, crusty French bread made on the premises.  We quickly became used to pain au chocolate and fresh bread each morning.

The real surprise is how little they grow themselves.  Granted not all the atolls appear to have any soil, but some do and they have become accustomed to the supply boat.  Some of the smaller areas have breadfruit trees and ofcourse there are coconuts everywhere!!

Fakarava atoll (N. pass) – Toau Atoll (Otugi pass)

We had no trouble exiting the N pass at Fakarava.  The local dive shop was very helpful in terms of tides and routes – stay away from the middle of the pass where the current and waves are strongest!

It was a blustery sail to Toau but we timed it perfect and entered the pass no problem.  We anchored just inside the pass and enjoyed walking the outer reefs and swimming.

April 30th - May 3rd     Toau Atoll (Otugi pass) – Toanu Atoll (Anse Amyout)

The next morning the wind had shifted more North and when we sent out to look at Otugi Pass there were huge standing waves so we went back in, anchored and waited for slack.  Sometimes you just have to wait.  A couple of hours later the tide had turned and the pass was doable so out we went. Another rough day but only for a short time and we were at our next stop. 

Range markers made the entrance at Anse Amyout straightforward.  The mooring buoys at Anse Amyout were great and we tied up and found ourselves relaxing with the couple who run a small fish farm  - Gaston and Valentine. We also met the Aussie boys on ‘Full House’ - their energy and enthusiasm was infectious. Next day all the guys were out helping Gaston take down his fish farm and we finished the day with a shared meal.

THIS IS POINT AT WHICH WE CHANGED PLANS – WE ARE NOW HEADED TO BRISBANE!! HOW COOL IS THAT!!!

After talking to ‘Full House’ we began to seriously consider the merits of taking the boat to Brisbane.  Everyone was in full agreement and we suddenly felt we were on our “new” trip!! Out came charts, an intineray was drawn up and we are on our way.

Tahiti – Cooks islands – Tonga – Fiji – New Caledonia – Brisbane

We still plan to move fast and hope to arrive in Brisbane mid July so we can have 3-4 weeks there travelling around.

First stop on our new adventure is Papeete, Tahiti! Stay tuned!!

The weather?? Beautiful.

April 5th - 15th, Marquesas

April 5th -  15^th,  2011         Nuka Hiva, Marquesas

April 6^th 2011,             Taihoae, Nuka Hiva

                                                Arriving at Nuka Hiva

Arrived yesterday from Ua Pou.  Another lovely island!! It is a big harbour with lots of room.  The town is large for Marquesas and has internet, bank, store … basically everything we need.

We explored another ancient site above the town and watched some of the local carvers preparing poles for the big festival here this year.  The celebration is held every 4 years and this year it is in the Marquesas.  There is also a park on the shore filled with Tikis (modern) and carved by local craftsmen.

The colourful flowers and lush green hills are beautiful.  It is hard to not take just one more photo. When I think of Marquesas I will always think of flowers.

April 7^th, 2011             Taihoe – Tai Oa (Hakaui or Daniel’s Bay)

We motored around to hakaui, a truly stunning anchorage and the best protected yet!! You dogleg into a small cove, going immediately from large waves to flat calm.  All around steep slopes rise up from the turquoise waters.  We anchored in the middle of the bay and relaxed.   We caught some octopus and enjoyed meals with our friends.

The hike to the waterfall was fantastic.  We were lucky to have met some longtime sailors who invited us to join them.  We started the hike on a small track which wound through some gardens are small plots.  Everything is well maintained and tidy.  We passed bread fruit trees, banana trees, grapefuit and lime trees plus gardens of  lettuce, tomatoes, zuchinni, watermelon etc. 

As we rose higher, we meandered through ancient village sites, stopped to drift down the invitingly cool waters of the stream and enjoyed a lunch of breadfruit cooked on an open fire – delicious!  The waterfall was stunningly beautiful.  We were able to wade and swim to the  base and feel the water gently raining down.  It was high but not flowing strongly.  After playing in the pool for a short while it was time to head home.  Rain fell intermittently throughout the day but you hardly noticed it in the dense forest. We finished off with a swim in the river  before hopping in the dinghy and heading back to the boat.

                                                     Cooking breadfruit

We spent another day snorkelling and simply enjoying the peace of the anchorage.

April 10^th, 2011             Hakaui – Taihoae

Sailing back to the main village we caught a beautiful Tuna – yummy!! We took some with us to a barbeque with some local marquesans.  The food was fantastic and all new to us – BBQ fish, Chevre au lait coco, bread fruit, manioc, taro, and some really smelly prawns which is apparently a delicacy for them.  What a feast! We contributed some Tuna which they immediately tossed on the BBQ.  It was a family gathering and we were made welcome, it was nice to be able to just sit and relax and enjoy the food.

April 13^th , 2011             Taihoae – Anaho

We left early with wind on the nose! Once we turned further north we had a nice beam reach up to Anaho.  We caught a nice tuna but just as we were reeling it in WHAM a shark grabbed it and all we pulled in was the head. Impressive to say the least.

The bay is beautiful with white sand beaches and palm trees.  We found it calm and well protected. Easy to row to shore and explore the vast beaches and coral reefs.

                                                 Adios at anchor in Anaho Bay, Nuka Hiva

The kids and steff hiked over to the next village and visited more ancient sites. We also found the new museum which is excellent.  The sites are some of the largest on the islands. There are petroglyphs as well.  It is always interesting to see these early messages left on the rocks – you could clearly see the Tiki faces, a mahi mahi, a whale shark and human forms.  We learned from the local archeologists that the Marquesean culture is unique in the s. pacific.  Their language resembles the Hawaiian and Maori but not the Tahitian or Fijiian. They were a vast and complex culture and suffered after Europen contact in the same way so many other indigenous people have – disease, religious taboos etc.  Being more isolated than other islands the Marquesans were able to retain much of their culture and a recent revival of their heritage has given them back their language, tattoos, culture etc.  In fact, our first impression was how proud they were and how uniquely Marquesan. They are part of France but not French.

April 15^th 2011             Happy 14^th Birthday to Christopher!!

We hiked back over the sites for Chris’s BD and so Charlie could see them too.  We had a super lunch in a small restaurant and some other cruisers gathered round to sing for Chris.  How lucky to be 14 in such a beautiful place.

                                                                 Petroglyphs

We would have liked to have spent days here but we are getting short of time and the Tuamotus await!

April 15^th, 2011             Anaho – Taihoae

Caught another nice Tuna 19 kilos on our way back to Taihoae.  This time we reeled in faster to avoid the shark bite!! Nice beam reach and sailed into the harbour mid morning.  We anchored and quickly headed to shore to grab a few supplies before heading to the Tuamotus. Tidied up the boat and got things ready for our 4 day trip.  We leave early tomorrow.  

March 24th - April 5th Marquesas

March 24^th, 2011  Hana Moe Noe, Tahuata

                                          Octopus for dinner!

We found this anchorage to be everything the guides promised, stunningly beautiful, peaceful and full of sea life. Each morning giant Mantas fed around the boat – not a bad view with your morning coffee!

Chris captured the first octopus with some expert advice from new friends. It was delicious and we sent him back into the water next day for another one.  Walking on the beach each afternoon and playing in the surf made this anchorage a small tropical paradise. It was easy to stay “just one more day.” The anchorage is calmer, less winds funnel through, so we are busy catching up on school, boat projects and snorkelling.

After the dryness of the Baja it has been luxurious to see the darkening clouds and feel the first drops of rain.  The novelty still hasn’t worn off and the boat has never looked cleaner!  We are really looking forward to exploring more of these islands.

30^th, 2011             Atuona, Hiva Oa March

We stopped in at Atuona for some banking, internetting and supplies.  It was great to get some laundry done at the tap and concrete basin on shore – luxury after a bucket in the cockpit. We know the town a bit now so it was easy to get everything done in a day.

March 31^st, 2011             Hanimenu, Hiva Oa

We had a lovely sail up to Hanimenu on Hiva Oa.  This is where we will head off to Ua Pou which is an overnight for us.  The anchorage was roly and exposed but dramatic with volcanic spires and cliffs all around.  Chris and Charlie went to shore to explore the garden and pool and found that several families were living there.  A very peaceful place unless you are anchored!

April 1^st, 2011             Hakamaii, Ua Pou

                                               Motu Oa - approaching Ua Pou

It was straightforward leaving Hanimenu in the dark (5 am).  We sailed most of the way to Ua Pou.  One night seems so easy after the long trip from Mexico.  Dolphins played around the boat for most of the early morning and again as we neared the coast of Ua Pou.

We arrived at 9 am at Hakamii, it is a nice village.  No real dinghy landing so we anchored ‘Azul’ in a little cove and swam to shore. We were dry by the time we reached the village.  Kids galor, they laughed and talked and wanted to practise their English. We walked through the village and thought about a longer hike but the day was ending. Back to the dinghy and back to the boat.

April 2^nd, 2011             Tsunami Alarm!!

We had a rude awakening at 5 am as the Tsunami alarm sounded.  We immediately hauled up the anchor and headed to deep water.  We couldn’t get any response on 16 so we headed to Hakahau Bay and the town.  We sailed slowly along and drifted for a while as we passed by the Vaiehu anchorage. About 50 or more dolphins joined us and played around the boat as slowly sailed to Hakahau.  We caught a nice 25lb tuna so felt our early start was somewhat fortuitous.  

We anchored behind the breakwall at Hakahau and found it comfortable and calm.  We explored the village and talked to the local French doctors living on their boat.  It was nice to jump off the boat and swim or just row into town for a walk. 

The museum was closed but looked interesting.

We finally found out what the Tsunami alarm was for – a power cut had triggered the alarm – ha, a late April fool’s for us!

April 3^rd, 2011             Hakahau to Vaiehu, Ua Pou

I read in one of the guidebooks that this anchorage was spooky. It did have the feeling of something wild and somewhat unwelcoming.  The dramatic spires and steep slopes added to the effect. The anchorage is narrow with reefs and rocks down both sides. You constantly hear the booming of the waves on the cliffs and reefs.  We found it beautiful and sinister at the same time.  Oh and yes it was roly!

Chris and Charlie went snorkelling but the water was too murky so we headed off to Hakahetau and the village there.

April 4 th 2011             Hakahetau, Ua Pou

No wind so we motored around to the village.  Lovely little town.  The anchorage was fine and there was a place to land the dinghy behind a breakwater – a bit up and down but manageable.  We just pulled the dinghy up on the pier.

There is a great archeological site to visit and some great hikes up the valley.  We are beginning to understand the size of the ancient civilisation in the Marquesans.  We learned later that the islands became overpopulated and groups started to move away and settle elsewhere.  European contact added to the decline and now all that remains are the ancient house platforms made of giant rocks and the various religious temples equally as impressive.  A network of roads crossed the islands and you find yourself walking on stone paths that are thousands of years old.  You look at these enormous rocks perfectly aligned into straight walls and wonder how? Due to the geography of the islands they built in terraces up the steep slopes and rather than a central point (like we think of in a village) they just spread out across the hills. According to the experts the layout of their settlements is uniques in the S. Pacific.

April 5^th, 2011             Hakaetau, Ua Pou to Taihohe, Nuka Hiva

We had a terrific sail across to Nuka Hiva. 5 -6 knots all the way.  Caught a 40lb tuna, pretty exciting!  Chris ended up shooting it twice with the spear guns as they were afraid the line would break.  They then gaffed it and hauled it aboard.  Poor thing was truly caught and very dead.  It hung from the line with 2 spears sticking out as well as the hook from the gaff.  It was delicious!

We were very popular when we arrived n the anchorage as we passed the tuna around.

Hiva Oa to Fatu Hiva (Marquesas)

March – April, 2011   

Atuona, Hiva Oa, Marquesas

Fatu Hiva

We began our adventures in Atuona on the island of Hiva Oa.  We spent a week here enjoying the terra firma and all the great hikes.  We visited an ancient site at Taaoa, the museum and the ancient cemetery.

We also hiked to see some ancient petroglyphs, everything was so green and lush. After Mexico it is a true feast for the senses! We have stopped counting the number of shades of greens.

The people on Atuona were so friendly and welcoming that we found ourselves getting more and more excited about our time in the Marquesas.  The 24 day passage is long forgotten as we rush to explore these fantastic islands.

We left Atuona early in the morning and enjoyed a “boisterous sail” as Charlie called it, down to Hanavave on Fatu Hiva.  Double reefed main and reefed Genoa we flew along at 6 knots.  The Tartan does point well so had no trouble keeping our course, our Tartan does like to sail!

March 18^th, 2011 - Hanavave, Fatu Hiva

What a stunning anchorage to enter!! Volcanic spires encircle the small bay.  Behind our mist covered green mountains rising up into the clouds.  It was difficult to stop taking  pictures and prepare to anchor!

We enjoyed a nice hike up to the waterfall. Again we were astonished by the lush greens of the forest.  The town itself is so tidy and colourful.  Flowers everywhere, both planted and it pots. 

The wind howled through the anchorage up to 45 knots but no seas and the anchor was well set.  It rained as well with moments of brilliant sunshine between downpours.  The decks have never been so clean!

The locals greet the supply/tourist ship Aranui with a colourful  native dance and music.  It was beautiful to watch and very professional.  The villages all dance, even the children. In  fact the local schools were having a big competition in the next week to see who would go to Tahiti to compete there! People who put dance and music so high on their list of priorities have a very good attitude towards life I think.

We decided to do the 17 km hike to the next village and hitch a ride back.  Charlie set out a second anchor and off we went. It seemed we went up hill for most of the 17 kilometres!  The road wound up a ridge and onto a small plateau which wound its way along the coast.  Stunning views all around and windy.  We now understood why there were such gusts in the anchorage as it funnelled down through the valleys. We arrived Omoa after 4 hours.  We met a local Marquesean we had previously met in Atuona.  We enjoyed lunch at his place and later purchased some carvings and tapas.

When it was time to catch our ride back our guy was not there so we caught a ride with some other fishermen.  They pointed out some cliff graves and sacred caves as we  motored back to our boat.  It is a fascinating culture, filled with myths and legends which have been passed down through generations.  They have struck us as a very proud people, dedicated to their culture and way of life.  Looking at their history it hasn’t always been this way but they have worked hard to recover their Marquesan identity and still live as a French territory.

March 22, 2011 - Vaitahu, Tahuata

We were surprised leaving the island of Fatu hiva to find ourselves facing a headwind. The wind must wrap around the island. We motorsailed to Tahuata and unfortunately a gust caught the Genoa and blew out the stitching on the the webbing at the top.  Luckily it was only the stitching that let go! We quickly hoisted the smaller sail on the solent stay ( it was nice to have such  a quick and easy option). We anchored off the little town of Vaitahu and found to our surprise …  A BAKERY!! Oh yummy French bread.  The owners had brought the oven over from France (it was Italian made – how international)

We also discovered they have a super little museum, you ask at the Mairie next door and they open it up. We hiked up into the valley to see the ancient village site – they are really all over the islands, you just walk into the forest and there is a stone house platform!

It was time to take a break from the roly anchorages and check out the so called “calm” anchorage of Hana moe noa on the island of Tahuata.