April 16th - May 3rd Marquesas to Tuamotus

April 16^th, 2011             Nuka Hiva, Marquesas – Fakarava, Tuamotus

We left to rather boisterous weather, which gave us a fast if uncomfortable start.  Nobody wrote much in the log for the first 2 days – that tells you a bit about the weather.  “Squalls, bumpy & windy”

                       Charlie at the helm

As the weather settled so did we, the boat moving along nicely under reefed main and headsail.  Once again we found ourselves slowing the boat down to arrive in daylight hours.  We also wanted to time our arrival to the turn to flood in the passage. 

April 21^st, 2011             Fakarave, Tuamotus  HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHARLIE

We arrived at the pass around 08:30 in the morning – just in time for the flood!! As we approached a rainbow appeared touching on Fakarava then dolphins surrounded the boat and escorted us through the pass.

Range markers made the entrance straightforward and we simply followed the green buoys around to the anchorage.  It was a little shallow in spots but we managed just fine.  Once we were happily anchored we had the dinghy in the water and went back to the pass for some drift diving.  Fantastic number of fish and corals.  Like being in an aquarium really.

We had our first ‘stuck in coral’ experience when we returned to the boat and tried to re-anchor in a better place.  Forward, reverese, forward, reverses, around, back forward etc etc Charlie finally got in the water with a mask and yelled out directions as the kids and I manoeuvred the boat.  We were finally off and able to re-anchor out of the current.

We spent the next 2 days exploring the beaches and snorkelling in the pass. We saw the giant Napoleon fish, sharks, and a variety of beautiful corals.

We worked our way along inside the lagoon at Fakarava, stopping for a couple of nights here and there.  We avoided coral when anchoring but still managed to get ourselves stuck a few more times.  We quickly became adept at unwrapping ourselves!

The town of Fakarava on the N end of the lagoon was lovely.  We visited a pearl farm and were fascinated by the delicate technique used to implant each oyster.  They can also replace a small pearl with a larger nucleus and the oyster covers it and makes a larger pearl.  Apparently they can do this 3 or 4 times, getting a larger pearl with each change.

The supply boat arrived and we were able to purchase some fresh supplies.  The town also has the best bakery to date – really nice, crusty French bread made on the premises.  We quickly became used to pain au chocolate and fresh bread each morning.

The real surprise is how little they grow themselves.  Granted not all the atolls appear to have any soil, but some do and they have become accustomed to the supply boat.  Some of the smaller areas have breadfruit trees and ofcourse there are coconuts everywhere!!

Fakarava atoll (N. pass) – Toau Atoll (Otugi pass)

We had no trouble exiting the N pass at Fakarava.  The local dive shop was very helpful in terms of tides and routes – stay away from the middle of the pass where the current and waves are strongest!

It was a blustery sail to Toau but we timed it perfect and entered the pass no problem.  We anchored just inside the pass and enjoyed walking the outer reefs and swimming.

April 30th - May 3rd     Toau Atoll (Otugi pass) – Toanu Atoll (Anse Amyout)

The next morning the wind had shifted more North and when we sent out to look at Otugi Pass there were huge standing waves so we went back in, anchored and waited for slack.  Sometimes you just have to wait.  A couple of hours later the tide had turned and the pass was doable so out we went. Another rough day but only for a short time and we were at our next stop. 

Range markers made the entrance at Anse Amyout straightforward.  The mooring buoys at Anse Amyout were great and we tied up and found ourselves relaxing with the couple who run a small fish farm  - Gaston and Valentine. We also met the Aussie boys on ‘Full House’ - their energy and enthusiasm was infectious. Next day all the guys were out helping Gaston take down his fish farm and we finished the day with a shared meal.

THIS IS POINT AT WHICH WE CHANGED PLANS – WE ARE NOW HEADED TO BRISBANE!! HOW COOL IS THAT!!!

After talking to ‘Full House’ we began to seriously consider the merits of taking the boat to Brisbane.  Everyone was in full agreement and we suddenly felt we were on our “new” trip!! Out came charts, an intineray was drawn up and we are on our way.

Tahiti – Cooks islands – Tonga – Fiji – New Caledonia – Brisbane

We still plan to move fast and hope to arrive in Brisbane mid July so we can have 3-4 weeks there travelling around.

First stop on our new adventure is Papeete, Tahiti! Stay tuned!!

The weather?? Beautiful.