March 24th, 2011 Hana Moe Noe, Tahuata
We found this anchorage to be everything the guides promised, stunningly beautiful, peaceful and full of sea life. Each morning giant Mantas fed around the boat – not a bad view with your morning coffee!
Chris captured the first octopus with some expert advice from new friends. It was delicious and we sent him back into the water next day for another one. Walking on the beach each afternoon and playing in the surf made this anchorage a small tropical paradise. It was easy to stay “just one more day.” The anchorage is calmer, less winds funnel through, so we are busy catching up on school, boat projects and snorkelling.
After the dryness of the Baja it has been luxurious to see the darkening clouds and feel the first drops of rain. The novelty still hasn’t worn off and the boat has never looked cleaner! We are really looking forward to exploring more of these islands.
30th, 2011 Atuona, Hiva Oa March
We stopped in at Atuona for some banking, internetting and supplies. It was great to get some laundry done at the tap and concrete basin on shore – luxury after a bucket in the cockpit. We know the town a bit now so it was easy to get everything done in a day.
March 31st, 2011 Hanimenu, Hiva Oa
We had a lovely sail up to Hanimenu on Hiva Oa. This is where we will head off to Ua Pou which is an overnight for us. The anchorage was roly and exposed but dramatic with volcanic spires and cliffs all around. Chris and Charlie went to shore to explore the garden and pool and found that several families were living there. A very peaceful place unless you are anchored!
April 1st, 2011 Hakamaii, Ua Pou
It was straightforward leaving Hanimenu in the dark (5 am). We sailed most of the way to Ua Pou. One night seems so easy after the long trip from Mexico. Dolphins played around the boat for most of the early morning and again as we neared the coast of Ua Pou.
We arrived at 9 am at Hakamii, it is a nice village. No real dinghy landing so we anchored ‘Azul’ in a little cove and swam to shore. We were dry by the time we reached the village. Kids galor, they laughed and talked and wanted to practise their English. We walked through the village and thought about a longer hike but the day was ending. Back to the dinghy and back to the boat.
April 2nd, 2011 Tsunami Alarm!!
We had a rude awakening at 5 am as the Tsunami alarm sounded. We immediately hauled up the anchor and headed to deep water. We couldn’t get any response on 16 so we headed to Hakahau Bay and the town. We sailed slowly along and drifted for a while as we passed by the Vaiehu anchorage. About 50 or more dolphins joined us and played around the boat as slowly sailed to Hakahau. We caught a nice 25lb tuna so felt our early start was somewhat fortuitous.
We anchored behind the breakwall at Hakahau and found it comfortable and calm. We explored the village and talked to the local French doctors living on their boat. It was nice to jump off the boat and swim or just row into town for a walk.
The museum was closed but looked interesting.
We finally found out what the Tsunami alarm was for – a power cut had triggered the alarm – ha, a late April fool’s for us!
April 3rd, 2011 Hakahau to Vaiehu, Ua Pou
I read in one of the guidebooks that this anchorage was spooky. It did have the feeling of something wild and somewhat unwelcoming. The dramatic spires and steep slopes added to the effect. The anchorage is narrow with reefs and rocks down both sides. You constantly hear the booming of the waves on the cliffs and reefs. We found it beautiful and sinister at the same time. Oh and yes it was roly!
Chris and Charlie went snorkelling but the water was too murky so we headed off to Hakahetau and the village there.
April 4 th 2011 Hakahetau, Ua Pou
No wind so we motored around to the village. Lovely little town. The anchorage was fine and there was a place to land the dinghy behind a breakwater – a bit up and down but manageable. We just pulled the dinghy up on the pier.
There is a great archeological site to visit and some great hikes up the valley. We are beginning to understand the size of the ancient civilisation in the Marquesans. We learned later that the islands became overpopulated and groups started to move away and settle elsewhere. European contact added to the decline and now all that remains are the ancient house platforms made of giant rocks and the various religious temples equally as impressive. A network of roads crossed the islands and you find yourself walking on stone paths that are thousands of years old. You look at these enormous rocks perfectly aligned into straight walls and wonder how? Due to the geography of the islands they built in terraces up the steep slopes and rather than a central point (like we think of in a village) they just spread out across the hills. According to the experts the layout of their settlements is uniques in the S. Pacific.
April 5th, 2011 Hakaetau, Ua Pou to Taihohe, Nuka Hiva
We had a terrific sail across to Nuka Hiva. 5 -6 knots all the way. Caught a 40lb tuna, pretty exciting! Chris ended up shooting it twice with the spear guns as they were afraid the line would break. They then gaffed it and hauled it aboard. Poor thing was truly caught and very dead. It hung from the line with 2 spears sticking out as well as the hook from the gaff. It was delicious!
We were very popular when we arrived n the anchorage as we passed the tuna around.
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